3 days on the KalandKör400 with Paraferee

A VERY NON-CLASSIC LOOP AROUND LAKE BALATON ON THE HOTTEST WEEKEND OF THE YEAR

Ever since the Balaton Bike Derby, I have had that tingling awareness, that spritzer-intoxicating and performance-proud memory that Balaton can be circled not only on the classic shoreline route full of crowds (and idiots). Gravel bikepacking is part of me anyway (I have ridden several similar routes since then), and because BBD is only held once a year and its route officially cannot really be ridden at other times , luckily we have KK400, the Kaland Kör, which includes many elements of BBD but is of course still different. Right from the start there is the fact that KK400 runs mostly on paved roads (70/30%), which is both good and bad... everyone can decide for themselves which way the scale tips. The key point is that it can be completed any time of year.

THE WEEKEND'S MOTTO: "I DON'T CHOOSE THE WEATHER, IT CHOOSES ME"

It was not intentional to set off on the hottest weekend of the year on a route that is mostly without shade... that is just how it worked out. But honestly, this would not be a problem if you could rely on the public blue water pumps, supplemented by the extras offered by small service spots. You set off early in the mornings, refuel often, keep moving steadily but determinedly, then swim in Balaton in the evening... yet both are on shaky ground in this region. Most pumps are removed or do not provide water, and many pubs are closed too... so you really have to pay attention.

A wiser rider now thanks to memories of the earlier BBD heatstroke that seems funny in hindsight, I poured water over myself often and kept replacing fluids continuously... topping up/refilling at every chance, downing a cold cola, and during the fiercest part of the day I ducked into shade for one and a half to two hours - on Saturday, for example, at the covered lookout point known from BBD on top of the shaman hill above Nezde, and on Sunday on a cafe terrace. THE LOOP IN THREE PARTS

Following the recommendation shown on the KK400 page, I planned a sporty ride, meaning counterclockwise, starting from Tapolca, split into 138-134-125 km days. My friend Gabor and I set out with great enthusiasm, but we did not arrive in Fonyod in cloudless happiness... unfortunately, due to pain from a minor fall, Gabor did not continue the adventure with me the next day, which added another complicating factor to the trip: riding alone... maybe some people are fine in their own world, but I am not like that. It also adds a technical risk factor: shopping or stopping at a pub without a lock becomes difficult. On day two, besides distance and heat, the challenge of Somogy's sandy terrain also showed up. The day's climbing was well above 2000 m, and fortunately the route avoids the worst sections, so I only had to push my bike on one very short stretch.

I do not know if that is why the official recommendation was set up this way, but there was a lot of asphalt left for the last day, which I did not complain about this time. It was possible to keep a good pace before the brutal heat and spin through most of the day smoothly. Sadly, before Tapolca, around Abrahamhegy, there is a bit of confusion with the signage and the character of the route, but by now I know that the roughly 6-7 km section there exists only as an immediate fix to a major problem, so it may not stay this way...IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR ADVENTURE

The value of KK400, beyond having a marked long bikepacking route, lies entirely in its sections far from the shore, where you can discover hidden villages and break away from the crowds, yet still splash in Balaton every evening if you want. That is, if you pay the steep camping and beach prices, because the shore is heavily built up and free-access sections are disappearing alarmingly. On the first evening in Fonyod, we still managed to find a place, but on day two, even more tired and even sweatier, I no longer had the energy to look, and getting into the campsite cost me 7200 forints... With two small navigational mistakes, the loop ended up 397 km long with 5720 m of elevation gain. If we add the sandy sections of day two, I now understand the fatigue I felt in my thighs...